Wednesday, January 16, 2019

Googleproof

There are multiple motivating factors that keep me on the road in pursuit of broken chains, but one of the big ones is chasing down my vague childhood memories. Whether I’m going to Jerry’s, Omelet Shoppe, G.D. Ritzy’s, or Darryl’s, I’m attempting to experience something that interested me decades ago that I didn’t get a chance to fully explore at the time. Up until now, the earliest and vaguest of those early vague memories has eluded me.

The fast food row of my early childhood in late 1980s Central Kentucky consisted of an Imasco-era Hardee’s, an Arby’s in a former Burger Queen/Druther’s, and a Fazoli’s in a heavily modified former KFC. All of these structures still stand today, (though the Fazoli’s is now a Dairy Queen) but another fast food joint in the area was leveled and forgotten decades ago.

I didn’t even remember the name of the place, but I remembered the building. It seemed impossibly tall and impossibly narrow to my preschool-aged eyes, with its bright mansard roof topped with a four-sided sign whose letters meant little to me at a time in my development that I was just beginning ponder the concept of written language. I was probably attracted to the bright colors and ornate trim. It was also the first fast food place with no inside dining area that I remember being aware of. My family and I never ate there when it was open, and it had been closed and demolished for a solid decade by the time I was old enough to drive.

With no restaurant name to Google, and with friends and family from the area unable to recall what the place was called, I had all but given up on researching the place more to see if there were any of them left open anywhere. That is, at least until I was browsing roadarch.com and found their entry for a chain called Central Park. Upon seeing the pictures of the double drive thru buildings with a tiny footprint, standing a good three and a half stories tall including the four sided sign on the roofs, I was 90% sure I had found more examples of that near forgotten building of my late toddlerhood. (I chalk up the 10% uncertainty to the fact that this is one of my earliest fast food memories.) Furthermore, I was ecstatic to learn of a handful of locations still open, mostly in East Tennessee.

Double drive thru in action. 
In fact, the first Central Park opened in Chattanooga in 1982, an early entrant in the then-crowded field of second-wave, no-frills fast food chains that sought to forego the salad bar and playground-laden excess that fast food had become, and take it back to its stripped-down roots, with limited menus, no inside seating, and dirt cheap prices. Checkers/Rally’s is a still thriving chain born of this boom. The all but defunct Hot ‘n Now is a relic of the same era, as are other defunct or near defunct chains like Snapp’s and Zipp’s. Even my beloved G.D. Ritzy’s tried to get in on the action with their short-lived Daddy-O’s concept. Most of these chains employed a double drive thru ordering system with two separate ordering lanes and windows as a way to maximize efficiency.

At their peak, Central Park had around 60 locations, mostly in the south, plus a few in Utah thanks to a lone franchisee in Salt Lake City. Like many other regional double drive thru chains, Central Park declined in the ‘90s, and locations, including the one I grew up near, gradually closed. Their name makes them difficult to Google, but constantly adjusting search terms and dragging the map away from Manhattan shows five Central Park locations open today, three of which are in their original 1980s-era buildings, another in an larger, presumably newer building, and a fifth operating out of a former Hardee's complete with inside seating. On a recent run to Tennessee, I stopped by a couple of the locations operating in their original structures.

My first stop was at Knoxville’s only surviving Central Park location, tucked on a tiny lot just off I-640. It was lunchtime, and the place was doing a brisk business. Upon my arrival, I noted there was no customer parking in the lot. As with many double drive thru chains of this era, you're expected to get your food and leave. The setup made taking pictures tricky, as I couldn't exit my car, but the drive thru lane that went all the way around the back of the building was helpful. When it was my turn at the order speaker, I asked for what seems to be the chain's signature burger, the Big Bubba, along with fries, and a sweet tea, as is my preference when checking out southern chains. I made the unusually short drive from the speaker to the window, paid, and received my order which I drove down the street to a gas station parking lot to examine and enjoy. 

I would totally hang a giant burger and fries in a conspicuous spot in my house.
 I can't help but think that the Big Bubba was inspired by the Rally's, and later Checkers Big Buford, or perhaps it was the other way around since Central Park predates both Rally's and Checkers. Like the Big Buford, the Big Bubba had two quarter pound patties, a couple slices of cheese, lettuce, tomato, pickles, and the regular condiments. As with the Big Buford, the Big Bubba is also completely forgettable. It's not an especially good burger, but it's also not especially bad. It's free of any unusual or unique toppings or flavors. It reminds me of a burger I could make at home, especially since I'm fairly sure that the beef patties were the type that you can buy in boxes of 50 at Sam's Club or Costco. Again, like Checkers/Rally's the fries were straight, but seasoned, though the seasoning wasn't as strong. They were closer to Arby's fries than Checkers/Rally's in flavor. Regardless of its shortcomings, the food was fresh and hot, and met the basic requirements I expected of a fast food meal. I was disappointed that it all came in generic packaging, as signage on the building showed branded drink and fry containers. I had hoped to take a branded cup or fry box home to add to my collection. Likewise, the price was a bit of a shocker, north of $10 for a large combo. For that much, I'd expect a place to sit and eat on site with a roof over my head, but they have to do what's necessary to survive, and the pricing hasn't scared off the locals.


The Big Bubba comes wrapped in plain foil. 


A generic Styrofoam cup of what I suspect are straightened curly fries
 Later that day, I stopped by a second Central Park in Cleveland, Tennesee, and found it to be less busy, though it was mid-afternoon by the time I got there. This location, while housed in the signature tall structure, had some differences. There were no intercoms. Instead you ordered, paid, and received your food all from the same window. This location also offered shakes, which weren't present in Knoxville. Having grazed all day, I wasn't terribly hungry, so I ordered only a chili dog and a Diet Coke. This time around, there was parking nearby, so I headed that way to enjoy my order. As before, the chili dog was well prepared, tasting hot and fresh, topped with mustard and onions. Maybe I've become too used to the Detroit style Coney dogs of my adopted home, but I found Central Park's chili to have an odd aftertaste that lingered an hour after eating, as if a bit too much of some seasoning had been added to the chili. Still, I take that as an indication the chili sauce was at least made from scratch, though it's tough for me to have strong feelings about it one way or another.


Cleveland rocks. 

Acceptable, but unremarkable chili dog


I spent that night in Chattanooga, Central Park's birthplace and home to two of the surviving locations. I attempted to have a third Central Park meal while in town, but found the location nearest my Airbnb closed at 7 PM despite Google indicating they were open until 9, forcing me to conclude that the Central Park brand is Googleproof, or at least Google-resistant.


 While I can't confirm it's the case, I don't see any evidence of corporate support for the remaining Central Park franchisees. Signage is weathered and dated, branded packaging is nonexistent, and there's no official website for the brand that I can find, though searching for Central Park invariably lands me in the famous greenspace in New York City far from the odd tall-small burger joints in Tennessee and Georgia. On the one hand, the lack of brand evolution is charming given that some of the surviving locations are dead ringers for the long gone Central Park that I vaguely recall from 30 years ago, but in an age where even the major fast food players are offering five and six dollar deals, a no frills chain like Central Park could thrive by undercutting them the way Checkers/Rally's does. While I didn't find the food at Central Park to be anything special in terms of uniqueness or price, it was at least decently prepared. The main attraction was always finally finding operating locations of what is perhaps my earliest memory of a broken chain a solid three decades after my first Central Park encounter, scratching an itch that I'd had for far too long. 



5/8/2020 Edit:



I guess should have trusted my gut and given my 10% uncertainty a little more attention. It's recently come to my attention that the fast food joint of my vague childhood memories was not a Central Park at all. The double drive thru burger stand that once stood on South Main Street in Nicholasville, Kentucky, near what is now Ollie's Bargain Outlet (and what was then Kroger) was an architecturally and conceptually similar Grand Junction Hamburger Station. The building and operation look to have been very similar to Central Park's, but it's tough to say who came first, and who was imitating whom. In the double drive thru fad of the 1980s, everyone was imitating everyone else to some extent. Information about Grand Junction online is scant, and the chain appears to be completely extinct. I'm disappointed that I never got to experience a whistle stop at the Grand Junction Hamburger Station, but I'm glad my fuzzy recollections of Grand Junction led me off the rails down the Central Park rabbit hole. 










37 comments:

  1. Wow, never knew my town had an endangered chain!

    You know, I'm a filmmaker, I could probaby do an ad for them, if it's not much bother.

    Meanwhile...I kinda want more of these to pop up! Like, they can collab with Mahalo Coffee and Weigel's to perform a Triforce of Local Power!

    Also, East Tennessee never had a Church's Chicken, a Jack in the Box, or a Rallys/Checkers! What the heck Knoxville?

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    1. I grew up in Hixson/Chattanooga and Central Park was the thing when I was a kid. Being born in the mid-70s, the mid-80s was formative for me and Central Park is a wonderful memory. I recall the burgers being $0.79 and fries were like maybe $0.39. Obviously prices have risen but I still remember the taste! I have been up to Chattanooga from Florida multiple times this year and had my young son with me and I promised him we would make it by one for lunch but didn't get around to it. I have another trip coming next month so we will definitely hit one. Love, love this place! -Ray

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  2. I used to love this place. I had one within walking distance when I was growing up in Utah. Place was always busy because people loved the quick service and decent cheap burgers.

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    1. THIS WAS THE BEST BURGER PLACE I WISH IT WAS BACK I DONT UNDERSTAND THE WHOLE IN AND OUT THE FRIES ARE GROSS AND BURGERS DO NOT HAVE FLAVOR

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    2. Knoxville did have a rallys once.... right beside the Kerns bakery on Chapman highway... and the church's chicken was near east town mall, I have ate at both....

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  3. Wasn't there a railroad-themed burger joint like this on Nicholasville Rd. Maybe called Grand Junction or something?

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    1. True story, I recently learned that the mystery fast food joint from my early childhood wasn't a Central Park at all, and was in fact, a Grand Junction Hamburger Station. It stood near what is now Ollie's Bargain Outlet on South Main Street in Nicholasville. There may have been others in Lexington around the same time. I plan on amending this post shortly to reflect this discovery.

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  4. Thanks for this! I loved the Central Park in Layton, Utah when I was a kid. No one I talk to remembers it, and I was starting to feel a little bit crazy.

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    1. There was one in Clearfield too! I loved going there, the mustard on burgers and the seasoning on the fries were what kept me craving it. I always wondered how hot it had to be in that tiny space for the workers.

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    2. There was one in West Jordan too, I randomly remember it from my childhood and the fries.

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  5. This is great!!! We had one in Selma,AL that operated until 2007 I believe. Loved this place.

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  6. I remember eating once at Central Park in Chattanooga, where I grew up. Don't really remember what the food tastes like but it's awesome to see my hometown represented. Chattanooga was also the birthplace of Krystal's...

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    1. I grew up in Chattanooga too and remember them fondly! I visit pretty frequently but haven't had Central park since I was a kid in the 80s. Going back in December and will definitely hit one with my son for the memory. It was awesome and they were literally everywhere.

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  7. Beefy's Hamburgers was out of Nashville and inho the best of the double drive-thru burger concepts. Sadly they are all gone.

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  8. We had one in Galesburg, Illinois back in the day. I've heard Canton, IL still has one, I may have to road trip.

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    1. Centralia Illinois has one too

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    2. There was a Central Park that we went to fairly often in Halls, off of maynardville pike, and there is still and operating location in Maryville, intersection of 411 and foothills mall dr. I personally think their fries and Rally’s fries are my all-time faves, but I haven’t had fast food in years

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  9. I was always intrigued by this place...I first saw one during a cross-country trip in the mid-90's...I want to say it was in southern Illinois heading towards St. Louis.

    I do remember it have this catchy little jingle I find myself humming every once in a while. Their corporate website was www.centralparkamerica.com which is long dead, however you can pull it back up if you plug it into archive.org and go back a few years.

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  10. I worked at one in West Memphis, Arkansas. We churned out great food, low prices and did it faster than any of the big chains. Still remember having buns passed through a hole in the roof to the storage/office upstairs.

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    1. I remember that one too. Went there several times in the 80s.

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  11. The one in Sunset Utah was our favorite quick order place, and back then the price was better than most places. The building is still there as a Grounds for Coffee shop

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  12. Provo, UT. Early 90's. Burger, fries, 22 oz drink all for $2.25.

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  13. Is there any way for us to bring Central Park Burger 🍔 joint back out here to SLC Utah we loved it in West Valley

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  14. I’ve been asking people from my childhood the name of this place for a couple years and no one remembered. My parents got burgers here a lot but it burned down when I was young. Thanks for the update

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  15. There was a Grand Junction in North Knoxville (Halls) that was fairly short lived then became a Central Park. From what I remember, the food was very similar but I do remember at the time saying I liked Grand Junction better. For years I have been trying to figure out what it was before Central Park but no one seemed to remember it being anything prior. Thanks to your article I finally have an answer!

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  16. I love Central Park but the 1 here in Knoxville has gone way down hill. I miss the one we had growing up in Chattanooga. I would love to take of this chain and bring it into the 21st century

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  17. We are opening a brand new Central Park in Fort Oglethorpe Ga. Should be open by January come down and check us out. I was a store manager at two different central parks . The chain is in my veins. The original parent company was Central Park USA and it was owned by Bobby Davenport Which I met The story goes one brother wanted a sit down restaurant and created Krystal and the other a get it and go and created Central Park years later Never asked Bobby if that was true but I know the Davenports owned it until the bought into the Burger King Corporation.

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    1. Did you actually open up? My dad lives in Ringgold and I live in Gainesville, Florida, but when I was up there last month I don't recall seeing one?

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  18. https://www.chattanoogan.com/2022/4/15/447307/John-Shearer-With-Krystal-Turning-90.aspx

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  19. There used to be one in Pocatello but closed like 4 years ago

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  20. Yes, great burgers at Central Park (CP)! I would get them all the time in Chattanooga and moved north, the one in Centralia IL went out a few years ago. Central Park also came out with a great Italian version of CP called Vitabella's. They had personalized pan pizza like Pizza hut for about $1.35 and a gallon of spaghetti with meat marinara for 3.00 and garlic bread for 75 cents. A great salad for a dollar. Great sauce! I hated to see them go. They were just off the 4th street exit in Chattanooga right by a CP. They had the same layout, but had an Italian look. This was about 1990 to 1993. They were always busy.

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  21. I remember when the very first one was built in the parking lot of the Highland Plaza shopping center located in Hixson, TN. We ate there constantly because it was cheap and the food was pretty good for the price. When it first opened I believe the fries and drinks were twenty nine cents and burgers were eighty nine cents. Unfortunately the chain has diminished and there are only a few left in operation.

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  22. I loved the Central Park in Athens Tn…. The food was good, was just like a rally’s/ checkers( rally’s also being a childhood favorite)but much fresher!!! I love this blog idea because I also worked at a now dying GD Ritzys…. Keep it going Bud bud!!

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  23. I have tried for YEARS to remember the name of that dang burger place! Their burgers were so good! Or maybe it was crazy pregnancy taste buds. In my opinion, in the 90s, their food was so much better than checkers. It's sad to know that even though there is a few in the state above me (I'm in NW GA), they aren't good now.

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  24. Every few years it seems like I randomly think of “that place in Knoxville with the spicy fries and really tall, white building,” and bring it up to my family. We finally remembered the name a few years ago but I never thought to google it until today. I loved reading this so much I even sent it to them. We’re from southeastern Kentucky and I can remember one Central Park location in Knoxville though I couldn’t tell you exactly where. I think the “spicy” fries must be what my kid-like palate thought since you called them more like straightened curly fries.
    This was such a nice trip down memory lane. Thank you.

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